Marzocchi drop-off iv manual

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Thread starter foxx-racing Start date Oct 6, Hey guys, Just a couple of questions: 1 - Do you guys know what is evolved and how do you service a set of marzocchi drop off iv's? Cheers guys, looking forward to a response. Last edited: Oct 6, FoxRidersCo Sanity is not statistical. EDIT: beaten too it.. Can somebody else clarify this? Maybe a magnet? I don't think there's any difference between the two other than what the stanchions are mad out of, they both look to be built the same way with all the same bits in them.

AngoXC Wheel size expert. AngoXC said:. Pull the extractor rod so that the upper face of the washer stops against the lower face of the guide bush. Insert the aluminium bush A in the seat of the sealing ring. While holding the main rod in position, the aluminium bush will drive the guide bushes during extraction. Using striker D knock out and extract the guide bush 1. Remove the guide bush 1 from the extractor. Repeat the steps above to remove the bottom guide bush.

Do not, at any times, reverse the position of the pumping elements in the fork legs if you are unsure about anything, please referto the relevant exploded view. Insert the pre-assembled valve in the piston rod from the three-point ring side as shown. Insert the valve and the pumping element 3 into the stanchion. Take great care not to damage the segment and if necessary use a small flat-tip screwdriver to help the piston of the pumpingelement into the stanchion.

Using the special round-nose pliers, mount the stop ring 2 and check it fits perfectly into its groove. Fit the bottom pad 1 to the pumping element rod. Insert the rebound spring 7 , the preload tube 9 and bushing 4 through the hole with smallerdiameter into the piston rod. Insert the bushing in the piston rod through the hole with smaller diameter. Insert the pumping element 3 into the stanchion. Do not, at any times, use othertools. Fit both dust seals 11 to the stanchions.

Insert the crown-stanchion unit 3 in the arch-slider assembly 4. Using introducer A insert the dust seals 11 in their seats. Assembling: Filling with oilBlock the fork in the vice, in perfectly vertical position. Lower the crown-stanchion unit on the arch-slider assembly. Pour the rest of oil in. A lower or higher volume or a type of oil other than the one recommended can change the behaviour of the fork in every phase. Lift the crown-stanchion unit on the arch-slider assembly. Insert spring 2 in the right leg.

Assembling: Mounting the top capsPut the fork in the vice in vertical position, fixing it by the dropouts. Check that O-ring is not damaged. This paragraph indicates the sequence of operations to perform to set up the Marzocchi forks correctly. In order to find the best settings for you, you will need to try several times to understand where and how to make adjustments. When doing so,please ride in an open area, free from traffic, obstacles and other hazards.

The optimal setting is influenced by the geometry of the frame of the mountain bike, the weight of the cyclist, the type of terrain the bike will beused on and the type of obstacles you have to deal with, but also by subjective factors associated with your riding style; therefore it is impossible toprovide objective data on the desired settings.

Nevertheless by carefully following the instructions below you will soon be able to find the optimal setting for you. The shock absorber must be calibrated simply by using one adjuster at a time, following the order explained, noting the operations and any resultstep-by-step. During setting don't force the adjusters beyond their limit of travel and don't exceed the max recommended air pressure. The use of any other pump can compromise the inflating operation and cause malfunction or damage to the fork, resulting in anaccident, personal injury or death.

Once the correct setting has been found, we recommend noting the number of clicks or turns of the adjuster with respect to the "fully closed"position adjuster fully clockwise for a faster re-setting of your fork in case of need. On the leg portion of the fork, measure the distance between the lower crown and the dust seal seePicture A.

While sitting on the bike, repeat the measurement see picture B. Setting: Positive airPositive air is the elastic element of air damped forks. Using inadequate tools may lead to a wrong inflation and result in a malfunctioning or damage to the fork. If you need to reduce the leg pressure, simply push the valve pin down with a pointed tool such as a small pin extractor.

Left fork leg:To increase the pressure in the fork leg:Remove the protection cap. Tighten the threaded pump adapter on air valve. Inflate till reaching the pressure you wish see table. Refit the protection cap. Setting: Spring preload with airThe optimal spring preloading is the one that lets you obtain the desired SAG under the biker's weight.

Right fork leg:To increase the pressure in the fork leg:Remove the protection cap. Setting: Rebound adjustmentRight fork leg:With the rebound adjuster you can control the return speed of the fork after compression. The right rebound speed setting makes the bike stable letting it follow the variations in the terrain and any obstacles. If the fork setting is too reactive this will make the rear suspension instable and the mountain bike will have a tendency to snake.

A too slow settinghowever will cause problems when dealing with multiple obstacles where the suspension can't return to its fully extended position fast enoughbetween one obstacle and the next. Using a small pin extractor, push the valve pin down to eliminate the right leg pressure.

With a 21mm socket spanner, unscrew and remove the protection cap A. Fit the hexagonal rod B supplied into the hole of the adjustment screw C in the stanchion tube. I hope to ride and have fun for a long time now! You too ride hard and ride have fun! Its cool you passed your dad, he must be feeling old now, hahhahahhahha.

Mkawas Oct 11, at Yeah my dad told me that some time ago, now I feel stronger than him hahaha.. By the way, although you're 50 years old you can still ride XC in your trails. Quote: "I always put about 20 psi on both sides" Part of the problem might be that you're using the wrong air pressure in the fork.

How much sag do you have in the fork? Coil preload air pressure right leg : 0 - 1. Quote: "I have to open the fork from the top and use a screwdriver to move it as specified on the manual. Then I noticed the strong rebound and lowered to 20PSI on both to try out, but the sag was high and the rebound was also strong.. I'll take it to he guys on the workshop, they should have the tools and they should also know about this problem..

I'm not gonna ride for a while that's for shure! Have you tried a lower pressure then 15 psi right leg? Some people run 0 psi or a very low pressure like 1 or 2 psi. I used to have 20, then 15, but let me check. I will put 35PSI on he left leg and 3 on the right one. It may help, but i think it needs a rebound adjust and an oil change Did you lower the Coil preload air pressure in the right leg? Lower the coil preload air pressure in the right leg to 0 psi then pump up the positive air pressure in the the left leg to what ever pressure it takes you to get 25 to 30mm sag and see if that changes anything.

I used 35 psi on the left and no air on the right and it stopped making that sound! It did worked! Beav Apr 25, at Mines doing this and im tempted to sell them. I bought them like this a years back but with me not riding much I havn't done much about it. Mine do not have the external adjusters I think mine are ones or Silver stantions. Mkawas Jul 9, at I just sold that thing and bought a BoXXer. I never solved the problem but I think it was rebound and something inside that wasn't working.

JackStephen Oct 6, at Mkawas Oct 6, at A mi me trabaja super bien, la verdad me fascina.